Two of Champagne’s most distinguished rising
stars, Raphaël and Vincent Bérêche have been
working alongside their father Jean-Pierre at
their domaine since 2004, and today they are
putting an increasingly personal stamp on this
thoughtfully-run domaine.
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With a history stretching back to 1847, Champagne
Bérêche et Fils has found itself revitalized as the
brothers, the family’s fifth generation, have taken the
reins. The domaine owns vines in several different sectors
of Champagne, with the three primary areas being the
immediate vicinity around Ludes and Craon de Ludes, the
gravelly terroir of Ormes in the Petite Montagne, and the
area around Mareuil-le-Port, on the left bank of the
Vallée de la Marne. A small parcel is also found in
Trépail, in the eastern Montagne de Reims.
The estate's vineyards are planted with roughly equal
parts of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, and
attention is increasingly being paid to natural
viticulture — the brothers completely stopped using
chemical herbicides in 2004 and have planted cover crops
in all of the vineyards; since 2007 a portion of the
vineyard has been converted to biodynamics.
This turn towards natural viticulture, combined with a
renewed focus on the details of work in the cellar, has
propelled new energy into the domaine’s champagnes.
In Bérêche’s cellar, parcels are always vinified
separately. After a gentle pressing, slow fermentation
occurs on the lees in neutral French oak barrels. Over the
years, the family has slowly been increasing the
percentage of oak used in the cellar, and today about
three-quarters of the production is vinified in barrel.
Malolactic fermentation is systematically avoided. All
of their wines mature on fine lees and are racked off by
gravity. The second fermentation occurs under cork sur
lattes for 2 to 8 years before disgorgement by hand.
Dosage levels vary depending on the particular wine. The
brothers diligently track how their past cuvées are ageing
and, drawing from these observations, they fine tune the
succeeding cuvées’ dosage policies.
It is attention to these fine details that has turned
one of Champagne’s top growers into a truly iconic
domaine. The brothers’ love for their vineyards along with
their passion for terroir-focused Champagne has promoted
their mission to “excel in precision, tradition and
respect for life” and their glorious champagnes are
unequivocal proof that their efforts have been handsomely
rewarded.
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As always, the
Bérêche Champagnes are built on vinous texture, an
expression of the land and total sensuality.
— Antonio Galloni
Bérêche’s wines are full in flavor and
finely balanced […] With each successive
year they seem to be acquiring more vinosity and
complexity…
— Peter Liem
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One taste of their Brut Réserve NV is all it takes to
prove that this domaine sits comfortably in the top
echelon of grower champagnes. Indeed, the Brut Réserve — a blend of
70% wines from the base year with the balance being
reserve wines — is undeniably authoritative and
compelling. Peter Liem was absolutely spot on when he told
us that we should look into this again. When we tasted it
anew last year, it convinced us beyond any doubt that
Bérêche’s Champagne-making game had now reached the realm
of the greats. A model of harmony, nuance and verve, the
Brut Réserve is a pure expression of the domaine’s varied
terroirs that demonstrates both the Bérêche brothers’
great skill as well as their originality. It is one of the
best examples of an NV Champagne to be found anywhere.
The domaine also produces several individual
limited-release cuvées, all of them aged under cork. These
are truly singular expressions, beloved by grower
Champagne connoisseurs for their unique character and
complexity.
Bérêche now ages their cuvées
under cork, a costlier and more laborious
approach, but instrumental to crafting deeper,
more complex champagnes
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The Rive Gauche is
a pure Pinot Meunier Champagne from vines nearly half a
century old, planted in chalky clay in the Le Port à
Binson section of the Vallée de la Marne. The
purity, intensity and elegance of its expression, both of
variety and terroir, sets it apart from the handful of
other top all-Meunier Champagnes being made today.
The Bérêche rosé, Campania
Remensis, uses the Roman name for the
countryside around Reims. It also comes from a single
terroir, the village of Ormes, just west of Reims in the
Petite Montagne. It is two-thirds Pinot Noir — including a
small percentage of still wine for colour — with the
balance being Chardonnay. It is, like all of the domaine’s
wines, a Champagne of unusual originality and elegance.
The cuvée named Rilly-la-Montagne
— a pure Pinot Noir from the premier cru village of the
same name, west of Ludes — is a new addition to the
domaine’s portfolio, debuting with vintage 2013. From a
half-hectare of 36-year-old vines in the Les Sablons
lieu-dit, it is an exotically perfumed, vivid Champagne,
courtesy of the limestone and sand soil and steep slope of
its site.
Arguably the most original of
all in this lineup of singular champagnes is the Reflet d’Antan. It is made
of one-third each of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and
Chardonnay, drawn from a perpetual reserve of 600-litre
barrels begun by Jean-Pierre in 1985. A solera in all but
name, every year two-thirds of the wine in each barrel is
drawn off and replaced with that from the latest vintage.
After aging for four years on the lees, the resulting
multi-vintage blend is a riveting, complex Champagne that
seamlessly marries richness, texture and depth, and does
so with startling freshness and lift.
We’re
thrilled to present to you today our latest
collection from Champagne
Bérêche & Fils. A domaine that’s
featured on top restaurant wine lists around the
world, they’re more than deserving of the acclaim
they’ve received — the elegance of their cuvées is
nothing short of mindblowing. Catch this rising star
domaine now and let the champagnes do the talking.
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This offer is valid until 23 April 2021. Orders will be
processed subject to remaining availability and final
written confirmation. Some wines have restrictive
supplies, so please understand that we may have to
allocate them in order to ensure as equitable a
distribution as possible. Full payment is required in
order to confirm the purchase. All terms and conditions
apply.
References:
- The Rare Wine Co. website
- Peter Liem’s The Champagne Guide
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