Even at this early stage, it is abundantly clear that Clos de la Commaraine is a Pommard of true distinction, one that is sure to rank amongst the finest wines from this historic commune, perhaps even setting the benchmark against which they ought to be measured.

There are many reasons for this. First off: pedigree.

This vineyard has long been held to be of exceptional quality, as documented in various historical publications. A case in point: as far back as 1855, the terroir of Clos de la Commaraine was rated as Première Cuvée by Dr Jules Lavalle in his renowned Burgundy classification tome. Going even further back, Thomas Jefferson, the American President who famously was an ardent lover of French wines, was said to have been so impressed by its wines during a stay at the property, that he ordered 126 bottles of the 1785 vintage.

A respect for nature also plays an important role here. We have long observed that the world’s finest estates, regardless of origin, tend to be practitioners of sustainable viticulture. Domaine de la Commaraine holds these same values. Shortly after the property came into the hands of its current owners, the domaine initiated organic conversion, starting in 2018. It’s not surprising that this change came around the same time that Louis-Michel Liger-Belair was appointed as the domaine’s principal consultant. The domaine and Louis-Michel both agreed that organic farming was imperative if they were to make wine of impeccable quality. They have since made plans to work towards going fully biodynamic. 

Last but not least, there is a unified, no-holds-barred ambition to restore the vineyard to its maximum potential. The owners who bought the property from the Jaboulet-Vercherre family have given the domaine team free rein, directing them to spare no effort in understanding their 3.75-ha clos vineyard, in order to make a fresh start and turn the page on the wines previously made by Louis Jadot.

On the advice of Louis-Michel Liger-Belair and his longtime collaborator, soil scientist Pedro Parra, the domaine divided the vineyard into eight distinct plots. They then used state-of-the-art electromagnetic conductivity analysis to map out the variability of the soil properties in each plot. This was done in part to understand if the soil systems were balanced or lacking in any particular nutrient or component. This rigorous attention to detail is carried through to the cellar, where each plot is vinified separately, and evaluated thoroughly, before decisions on the final blend are made. All of these steps serve to underscore the domaine’s perfectionist approach.

Thanks to Louis-Michel, we were introduced to Jean-Luc Vitoux, the estate director, and managed to pay a visit to the domaine last fall. Pommard is a beautiful village, serene, idyllic and seemingly untouched by time. And though the village is incredibly pretty, the domaine itself takes it to another level — this property is gorgeous. Construction work was underway to restore the 12th century château, which will be reborn as a luxury boutique resort. Jean-Luc was visibly enthused about the development of the site, being an architecture buff himself, and he showed us around the building, pointing out various original artifacts that had been excavated as they were hacking the floors and partition walls.

Located in the northern part of Pommard, the walled vineyard (‘Clos’) of Commaraine is insulated from outside influences, and therefore is especially suited to organic and biodynamic farming. The moment we laid eyes on the vineyard, it was obvious that the team had been hard at work. Even nearing the onset of winter, the soil looked fresh and alive, and the vines meticulously tended, glowing with warm autumnal amber. Jean-Luc explained to us that the studies on the eight micro-plots were still ongoing and that his team was diligently monitoring the findings. They believe that eventually having a full understanding of the Clos’ various microclimates will help the domaine to craft wines that will befit the vineyard’s hallowed historic reputation.

Then came the tasting.

We’ve never had a tasting at any domaine we’ve visited where there was just one wine. But we understood that this was the inaugural vintage, and that the only wine that the domaine had produced that year was its prized monopole premier cru. Given the unique circumstances and the quality of the wine we encountered, this was quite an unforgettable experience.

We tasted from a bottle drawn out from the blending vat. (We were told that the final bottling would take place two to three months later.) Jean-Luc shared with us that they actually vinified 35 barrels from the vintage, but that eventually only 20 barrels were selected by Louis-Michel and Jean-Luc to make it into the final blend. This was a momentous decision, as this assemblage will also help to chart a path for the emerging expression of the domaine’s terroir.

One sniff into the glass and it was clear as day whose hands made this wine. The signature Liger-Belair grandeur — seductive high-toned perfume, bright, well-delineated opulent fruits laced with mineral tones, satiny texture — they were all there from the get-go. The level of finesse was stunning. There are very few Pommards that come close to the level of this wine’s expressiveness. This is an extraordinary feat given that this was only the debut vintage. The results more than confirm the vineyard’s pedigree and vindicate Louis-Michel’s all-out effort to make a truly special wine. The new oak ratio was spot on, just sufficient to give the wine that polish and the room to put on some volume in the mouth. The tannins were very fine, framing its billowing fruit but never restraining it. It was a superb Burgundy and, as a debut, indeed magnificent.

…the style of the Clos de la Commaraine wines has always been one of great refinement and superb balance […] We have done a huge amount of work at the Clos to reveal the terroir with help from experts in all fields, including Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, our winemaking and elevage consultant. This first vintage reveals an elegant and smooth wine with impressive depth. The work we have begun will continue in the coming years in our quest to produce a truly great wine. — Jean-Luc Vitoux

We are honoured and thrilled to offer to you today the inaugural Pommard from Domaine de la Commaraine: the exquisite monopole bottling of Clos de la Commaraine. This is a momentous union of a very special terroir and the handiwork of one of the most celebrated Burgundy vignerons of our generation. Quantities are very limited.

We are excited by what's going on in Pommard right now, and we're strong believers in this village’s revitalization. A new generation of vignerons seems to have cracked the code of how to express the commune’s impressive constitution in a flattering, alluring package, and the Clos de la Commaraine 2018 is nothing if not pure seduction in a bottle. For anyone seeking a great Burgundy today, this is not to be missed. Pommard is in the ascendancy and Domaine de la Commaraine will undoubtedly be one of the top names to watch as this renaissance continues.

Prices in this offer are valid only for orders taken up to 29 October 2020. Orders will be processed subject to availability and written confirmation. Full payment is required no later than 7 days after confirmation invoice has been sent to confirm the order. No reservations allowed and no further discount.

The wines are estimated to arrive in Q1 2021, subject to shipper’s final notice. All terms and conditions apply.