If there is one wine region in France that is generating quite a bit of buzz right now, it is Auvergne. Located due west of Burgundy, this central region is home to a multitude of dormant volcanoes, green valleys, rolling meadows, and vast pine forests. For decades, this pastoral area has been known more for hiking, skiing, and camping, than for wine. But Auvergne has a rich wine history, and the new wave of winemakers working here now are bringing it back to life.

Once upon a time, Auvergne was one of the biggest and most important wine producing regions in France. A significant amount of wine was being produced here from the Middle Ages onwards, and by the 19th century, it had become the third-largest wine producing region in the country. But with the 20th century came a sharp decline in viticulture here, initiated by the devastating blight of phylloxera and hastened by the onset of two world wars. Post-war industrialization and the accompanying urbanization, meant that Auvergne’s viticultural land and activities diminished greatly.

Maupertuis first came to Auvergne as a student, and then worked for a brief while as a computer scientist. He had always loved wine, and after buying a small parcel of vines for fun, he found he was spending all his evenings after work in the vineyards. A year later, he decided to throw in the towel and quit his job to go study viticulture/oenology in Mâcon. Through a sommelier friend, he came to know the wines of Marcel Lapierre and paid a visit to this legendary vigneron. The wine was like nothing that he had ever tasted. Enchanted, he tried to figure out what made it so special. Later, he met Pierre Overnoy, and his mind was blown all over again. He knew then that not only did he want to make wine, but also that he wanted to make it with the same philosophy as these luminaries.

In 1995, Maupertuis took over 3.5 hectares of vines in Saint-Georges-sur-Allier, about 15 km southwest of Clermont-Ferrand. The previous vigneron was about to retire, and his vineyard parcels were quite special. These mature vines were already at least 30 to 60 years old, and were located at an elevation of around 400 to 450 metres – a very favourable microclimate for making serious wines. The prior owner only rarely used a very light amount of herbicide on the vines, and they were in good shape, so it was easy to start farming organically.

Two vineyards, Guillaume and Pierres Noires, make up most of his holding, and are planted with Gamay d’Auvergne, a local varietal that is a different strain from that commonly planted in Beaujolais. Maupertuis subsequently acquired other vineyards planted with Chardonnay, Gamay Beaujolais (which he uses in his pét-nat) as well as Pinot Noir. The area boasts a wide variety of different soil compositions – granite, clay and limestone, marl and sand – and the shift in soil types can often be seen every few hundred metres. This is largely due to volcanic eruptions of the past which spread the earth and particles around.

Like his spiritual mentors, Jean avoids the use of chemical fertilisers, insecticides and herbicides in his vineyards, preferring to cultivate indigenous microflora by working the soils. Harvest is done by hand and the grapes always reach the winery in the morning when the temperature is still cool. Vinification is done in cement vats with whole bunches intact. He prefers to conduct carbonic maceration, as the protective CO2 allows him to avoid adding sulphur at bottling. Fermentation then takes place solely by indigenous yeast. He doesn’t touch anything for the next three weeks. After pressing, malolactic follows, and depending on the vintage he may choose to age in barrels. He allows the wines to settle through the winter (during which he refuses to physically check on the wine), and then racks one last time prior to bottling.

Maupertuis seldom touches his wines during the winemaking process. He has learned with experience that his wine goes through several fragile periods and physically handling them will only increase the risk of oxidation. He bottles his wine following a complete “no-no” philosophy: no fining, no filtration and no SO2 added.

If you want to get a sense of what a “free” wine tastes like, there is no better place to start than with Jean Maupertuis’ wines. Rest assured, however, that these wines are neither strange nor funky. We were stunned the first time we tasted them. More precisely: we were pleasantly and joyfully surprised. These are wines that are devoid of any sense of encumbrance; they are totally expressive and — most importantly — lipsmackingly delicious.

Maupertuis’ wines reflect the quiet spirit of their craftsman, a soft-spoken and modest vigneron who just happens to be a legit natural wine legend.

Auvergne is now the hotbed of some of the most original and exciting wine talents in France. Dare we say that it was Maupertuis’ independent spirit that led to the creation of Auvergne’s first natural wine 25 years ago, and is responsible for the revolution the region is undergoing currently.

We remain flabbergasted by the quality, originality and thrill the wines deliver with each sip, especially at this price level. Still, as with so many of the most exciting and coveted wines in the world, the quantities can be frustratingly limited. You won’t want to miss this modern legend — not just because he is a pioneering talent writing modern vinous history – but especially because his bottles will make you smile.

The prices in this offer are valid for orders taken up to 24 September 2020. Orders will be processed subject to remaining availability and final written confirmation. Do take note too that, due to restrictive availability of certain cuvées, allocation rules may apply in order to ensure fairer distribution. Full payment is required no later than 7 days after confirmation invoice has been sent to confirm the order. No further discount and no reservations allowed.