Although we secured our first precious parcel of these captivating champagnes two years ago, it is only now that we’re able to formally present this tiny domaine to you.

Well, our inaugural allocation comprised a modest quantity of a few 2014 base-vintage cuvées. These came and went very quickly. We only discovered this when we wanted to revisit some of the bottles a few months later, and found they were already sold out.

Last year, we eagerly received our sophomore allocation. Most of it quickly vanished from the shelves, yet again. It was then that we realised that a number of people have been quietly following this little domaine. Clearly they have very sharp eyes (and noses) because up to that point, we still had not had the opportunity to properly introduce the Ruppert-Leroy name.

Today, it is our pleasure to finally share the story of Champagne Ruppert-Leroy. Like their champagnes, there is much to admire about this wonderful family. And as with many great wines, the story begins with a farmer — in this case, a sheep farmer with a PhD in Philosophy.

That farmer was Gérard Ruppert, who in the 1970s purchased a half-hectare parcel of Chardonnay vines on the outskirts of Essoyes, a village in the southeastern corner of the Aube department in Champagne. He soon realised that the vineyard was prime terroir for producing top-quality grapes, something that he attributes to its unique soil composition and optimal exposure. He began tending it organically, at a time when much of Champagne’s land under vine was heavily treated with chemicals and fruit quality was of little importance.

As time went on, Gérard decided to add plantings of Pinot Noir vines using the selection massale method. This vineyard, named Fosse Grely, soon gained renown for the quality of its produce. Gérard never lacked buyers for his grapes. If anything, he could easily pick and choose to whom he wished to sell.

As Gérard approached retirement in the 2000s, he began feeling increasingly reluctant to sell the vineyard. He persuaded his daughter Bénédicte to help him out in the hope that she would eventually take over his farming activities. As it turned out, Bénédicte relished the idea. In fact, she decided to take the family’s farming practice one step further by converting the vineyards to biodynamic viticulture. Together with her husband Emmanuel Leroy, she also decided to stop selling their grapes and they began domaine-bottling their own champagne. The first vintage of Champagne Ruppert-Leroy was 2010.

From day one, Bénédicte never had any doubts about the quality of her grapes. For this, she credits her father’s decades of dedication to organic viticulture. As the saying goes, good grapes make good wines so, as a result, making good Champagne was not too difficult, even if it was a new craft to her and her husband.

Having been mentored by celebrated winemakers such as Pierre Paillard, Pierre Overnoy and Bertrand Gautherot of Vouette et Sorbée, Bénédicte soon found her own groove. For her and for Emmanuel, terroir expression is of paramount importance. This is the reason why all of their cuvées are made following a similar process, in order to highlight their individual site characteristics.

The winemaking process is uncomplicated and non-interventionist. After a very gentle pressing, fermentation begins solely by way of natural yeast. Alcoholic fermentation and élevage on fine lees usually take place in Burgundy barrels, followed by cold settling that occurs during the winter frosts. After malolactic fermentation, the wine is aged on its lees in bottle for another 18-20 months to complete its tertiary fermentation and maturation. Sulphur is never added and no dosage is ever used post-disgorgement. Bottling follows the biodynamic calendar and usually takes place in June when the vines are flowering.

Today, the domaine’s vineyard holdings have grown to four hectares spread across three parcels on south-east facing hills. The largest is Fosse-Grely, from which two cuvées are produced: the Fosse-Grely and, as of the 2014 vintage, a separate cuvée called Papillon, derived from Gérard’s original massal selection Pinot Noir planting. The other bottlings include that of the smaller Pinot Noir parcel Les Cognaux and their tiniest plot, the limestone-laden Chardonnay parcel Martin Fontaine.

The couple’s dedication to biodynamics is not limited to their vineyards. Bénédicte and Emmanuel have extended this philosophy to encompass the entire ecosystem around their winery. Here, they raise a variety of animals to enrich their biodynamic compost, and grow their own grains and vegetables which feed their family and neighbours.

For generations, the Aube was known primarily as a grape-farming region, with most of the produce sold to cooperatives and large Champagne houses. Now, like the Leroys, increasing numbers of young vignerons are steadily taking back control of their families’ land and starting to bottle wine themselves. They are paying careful attention to the health of their vineyards and the environment, and they prize the virtues of their unique Kimmeridgian terroirs.

These are magical, vibrant expressions of Champagne. They have stolen our hearts with their elegance, energy, and pure class. It’s stunners like these that continue to expand our definition of what we consider to be great champagne. Quantities are naturally quite limited, however.

The prices in this offer are valid for orders taken up to 17 September 2020. Orders will be processed subject to remaining availability and final written confirmation. Do take note too that, due to restrictive availability of certain cuvées, allocation rules may apply in order to ensure fairer distribution. Full payment is required no later than 7 days after confirmation invoice has been sent to confirm the order. No further discount and no reservations allowed.