Burgundians in Singapore: Multi-Vintner Multi-Event Series (22-23 January)

D O M A I N E
F R A N Ç O I S L A M A R C H E
with:
Nicole Lamarche (vigneron) & Nathalie Lamarche (regisseur)

Domaine Lamarche has one of the most wonderful portfolio in the whole of Côte d’Or including a monopole grand cru in Vosne-Romanée. In a village crowded with over-achievers it is befitting that this esteemed establishment now produces wines as good as they should be no less thanks the new generation propelling it to the highest acclaims.

The domaine was once presided by François Lamarche since the death of his father Henry in 1985. He was helped by his wife Marie-Blanche, until his retirement in 2006. The vineyards belonged jointly to François and his sister Genevieve, and their respective daughters Nicole and Nathalie who are now fully in charge. Nicole is responsible for the vineyards and wine making, while Nathalie runs the commercial aspects of the domaine.

The vineyard portfolio of this important domaine was masterfully sculpted over three generations. Most of the domaine’s holdings are in the village of Vosne-Romanée. The jewel in the crown is the monopole vineyard of La Grande Rue, a 1.65 ha sandwiched between the vineyards of Romanée-Conti and La Romanée on the north, and La Tâche on the south. Apart from this illustrious monopole, Domaine Lamarche is rich in enviable parcels of all that is the best in the immediate neighbourhood: in Clos de Vougeot, Grands-Echézeaux, Echézeaux, four premiers crus in Vosne-Romanée and one in Nuits-Saint-Georges.

Like many of the top domaines today, Domaine Lamarche is completely refreshed and elevated, evidenced by an unprecedented finesse of the wine, not to mention acclaims to prove for it. Under the smart hands of Nicole Lamarche, this name is now truly a top domaine, with wines which express themselves through their subtlety rather than their power. Since 1999, and more especially since 2005, the quality has been top-notch.

For any Vosne-Romanée afficionado, there is no better occasion to learn about her famous terroirs than through the lens of Domaine Lamarche and their dynamic all-female protagonists. Here is one such rare opportunities.

D O M A I N E
L A U N A Y - H O R I O T
with:
Xavier Horiot (vigneron)

Domaine Launay-Horiot is a rebirth of Domaine Raymond Launay. This family-run domaine has operated in Pommard since the 18th century. It was none too conspicuous and by the previous generation it was nearly consigned to obscurity. Fortunately, like the story of every turnaround domaine, a new generation with great ambition and talent came along to take things into greater realms.

In the case of the Horiot family, this transition into Domaine Launay-Horiot in the hands of the resilient Xavier Horiot had demanded more than just a good dose of noble ambition. It was beset with pain and a long drawn saga in the courts — all eleven years of it.

One glance across the domaine’s 4-ha holdings reveal the domaine’s glorious potentials: a superb array of old vines Pommard 1er Cru vineyards and two exceptional holdings of Grand Cru, the Latricières-Chambertin and a small holding of Chambertin located next to Lalou Bize-Leroy’s. To any Burgundian, and to us Burgundy lovers, these are absolute treasures, unequivocal pure gold.

Viticulture is non-interventionist, following principles of lutte raisonnée. In the cellar, Xavier seeks to be as gentle as he can be. He likes to keep the berries whole for as long as possible to allow them to fully develop their aromatic profile. Fermentation takes place with only indigenous yeasts. There is no undue extraction as natural concentration presides in the resultant wines. The wines are bottled without fining and filtration.

This is a sterling range of wines from a vigneron on a rapid ascendance. Critics agree. From Allen Meadows, Michel Bettane to Tim Atkin, there was a general consensus that his Pommards are uniquely gentle expression of the commune, exquisite, polished and full of pleasure, while the two grands crus of Latricières-Chambertin and Chambertin are brilliant expressions of their hallowed terroirs. The wines are fragrant, balanced and charming. Powerful where they should be but always elegant in all the right places.

There are few new producers in the region as progressive and compelling than Launay-Horiot. Burgundy lovers and trainspotters will not want to miss these new treasures and rarities.

D O M A I N E
J E A N - M A R C M I L L O T
with:
Alix Millot (vigneron)

Jean-Marc Millot had been growing grapes and honing his winemaking skills since the late 1980s. He started domaine bottling in 1992 with a limited range comprising Côte de Nuits-Villages plus a little Vosne-Romanée and Clos Vougeot. In 1997, he and his wife Christine began taking back control of vineyards which were been leased out to other producers resulting in a substantial acreage increase of the premier and grand crus to their holdings.

Recent developments at Domaine Jean-Marc Millot represent another successful generations shift from Jean-Marc to his young, energetic and talented daughter Alix. Alix Millot has worked full time with her father since 2014 and is now increasingly becoming the face of the domaine. The bond between father and daughter is visibly strong, a reassuring signal that a seamless gradual transition is on the way. If anything, the increasing quality of the recent wines are testament to this fabulous familial partnership.

It is a clear advantage that Millot produces a very focused set of wines from highly acclaimed terroirs. His vineyards are not only famous by name, but the actual location of every parcel is quite spectacular. The domaine’s Echézeaux is a blend of three famous climats, creating a sum in the bottle that is greater than the parts. His Les Suchots vines are in a highly favourable section next to Domaine Sylvain Cathiard’s while the Clos de Vougeot parcel is located in Le Grand Maupertui, one the finest climats of the entire clos. Even the Côte de Nuits-Villages is from a monopole vineyard Le Clos de Faulques, popularly documented as one of the most distinctive and finest in this “humble” appellation.

Domaine Millot’s wines flatter their pedigree in an elegant and understated way. Millot strives to produce pure, soft, mesmerising burgundies with an accent firmly on the watchword for pinot noir: aroma and fruit. Jean-Marc is a careful and pensive winemaker who is obsessed with clarity and precision. His daughter takes after her father’s philosophy in perfect unison.

The most plugged in Burgundy lovers have their thumbs on Domaine Millot’s wines, although their small production makes finding it a challenge especially with their hot reputation. Pure and seductive Burgundy rarely get better than this.